The Warrior Dress, Part Two

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This dress is not going as well as my last. Although everything has been going ok construction wise, I’m not loving how it turned out – there were a few things I had to change from my original design because of not being able to find the right fabric and so on. However, it still turned out pretty well, and overall was constructed pretty soundly too, so hopefully I’ll fall in love with it when it’s all together! This post will cover making the bodice.

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First, I draped it on my dress form over the skirt. I ended up scrapping the pictured design in favor of making the shoulders and front one, continuous piece that didn’t have seams, but otherwise it was exactly the same. I then turned this in to a pattern, taking care to add seam allowance for the pointed shoulders and bodice. Eventually, I ended up with a muslin mock-up.

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I didn’t love how it turned out, and there were a few mistakes that needed fixing (the panels didn’t match up exactly, and there was too much room in the bust). I fixed these on pattern paper, and cut it out of my brocade and lining fabric.

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Regardless of how this dress turns out, I will always love this fabric. it’s so sparkly and pretty, it feels very princess-worthy. I have enough left over that I might be able to make something else out of it, but I’m not 100% on that as of yet. Maybe it will have to be some pretty pillows or something!

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I sewed all the seams right side together, and then laid the muslin within the brocade and began folding up all the edges. Usually with bodices I prefer to sew right sides together and flip everything inside out, but because of all the points and details on this one I wanted a little more control over it.

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I then went and tried it on (it didn’t yet have back closures, hence the hand), and instantly was disappointed. It seemed to fit funny, didn’t sit how I wanted it, and felt flimsy. I hoped that once I put in eyelets in the back, this would fix itself.

To deal with the flimsiness however, I put a few layers of interfacing on to the shoulder and bodice points. This meant they were still body-conforming (which is why I didn’t want to use boning – I wanted everything to sit tightly but also be easy to move in), but held their own.

I went ahead and hoped that any fitting issues would work out when I put eyelets in.

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Luckily, I was right. The bodice, although definitely not my favorite thing I’ve made, sit much better and looked good front and back. I still need to hem the skirt off, but then I’ll be tentatively calling this one finished, although I still feel like it needs something (maybe a headdress?) Hopefully soon I can photograph it, and then make any decisions about needing a little something extra.

Inara

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